Archives December 2024

• Fresh Seafood: Enjoy the local specialties like grilled fish, seafood rice, and the famous açorda de lagosta, a lobster-based bread stew that’s as hearty as it is delicious.
• Grelhados (Grilled Fish): Simple yet mouthwatering, grilled fish seasoned with olive oil, lemon, and salt is a staple here.
• Caneja de Infundice: A unique and traditional dish made from “caneja”, a kind of fish, with no direct translation of…

  Ericeira is not just another coastal village in Portugal—it’s a unique destination where the surf culture, local history, and traditional charm blend seamlessly. Located just 50 kilometers northwest of Lisbon, Ericeira is often referred to as the “European Surf Mecca” and proudly holds the title of the only designated World Surfing Reserve in Europe. Whether you’re drawn by the waves, the history, or the picturesque beauty, Ericeira has something for everyone.

  A Bit of History: Where the Past Meets the Waves

  Ericeira’s charm is deeply rooted in its history. This seaside village, with possible ties to ancient Phoenician trade routes, has been a fishing hub for centuries. In the 19th century, it was a bustling port town, and in 1910, it became the backdrop for a dramatic royal escape—the last Portuguese king fled to exile from its shores, adding a layer of intrigue to this peaceful fishing village.

  Today, the village’s narrow, cobbled streets and traditional white-and-blue houses offer a glimpse into the past, inviting visitors to explore a town that has seen the ebb and flow of history.

  The unique “Jagoz” culture.

  Historically, the term has been used to differentiate the fishing community of Ericeira from the surrounding saloio inhabitants, who are not from the village itself but from the broader region of Mafra. The word “jagoz” likely originates from the local dialect influenced by the village’s history and culture, with various theories suggesting connections to Arabic or old Portuguese terms, though its exact etymology remains a subject of debate. Over time, “jagoz” has evolved from a mere description of birthplace to a symbol of pride and identity, representing not just the geographical connection but also the cultural and historical essence of Ericeira’s fishing community. In 2023 a statue of “Jagoz” was placed in front of the main beach area, Praia dos Pescadores.

  Surf’s Up: Ericeira’s World-Class Waves

  Ericeira has earned its reputation as a global surfing destination, attracting wave riders from around the world. With consistent swells, varied surf breaks, and ideal wave conditions, it’s a paradise for surfers of all levels:

  • Ribeira d’Ilhas: This iconic beach is the heart of Ericeira’s surf scene, hosting international competitions and offering some of the best waves in Europe.
  • Praia dos Coxos: Known for its powerful and challenging waves, this spot is favored by experienced surfers looking for a thrill.
  • Foz do Lizandro: A beginner-friendly beach with mellow waves, perfect for families and those new to surfing.
  • Praia do Matadouro: A lively beach with waves suitable for all levels, making it a popular spot for both locals and visitors.
  • Praia de São Lourenço: With its strong waves and stunning views, this beach is a favorite among advanced surfers.
  • Praia da Empa: A quieter, less crowded beach ideal for intermediate surfers, surrounded by beautiful cliffs.
  • Praia da Calada: A hidden gem, this secluded beach offers picturesque landscapes and uncrowded waves for those seeking solitude.

  Whether you’re a seasoned pro or a first-timer looking to catch your first wave, Ericeira’s diverse surf spots ensure there’s something for everyone.

  Beyond the Surf: Exploring Ericeira’s Must-See Spots

  Ericeira is not just about catching waves; it’s a place full of attractions and experiences that go beyond the beach:

  • Praia dos Pescadores (Fisherman’s Beach): A historic and family-friendly beach, known for its golden sands and clear waters. It’s where the last Portuguese king fled in 1910, and today, it’s the perfect spot for a leisurely beach day or a seafood meal at one of the seaside restaurants.
  • São Pedro da Ericeira Church: A simple yet beautiful church dating back to the 15th century, offering a glimpse into the town’s spiritual history.
  • São Sebastião Chapel: Built between the 15th and 16th centuries, this modest chapel features a stunningly tiled interior, showcasing Portugal’s traditional craftsmanship.

  What to Do in Ericeira: Activities and Adventures

  • Hit the Waves: You can’t visit Ericeira without giving surfing a try. Plenty of local surf schools offer lessons for beginners, while experienced surfers can head straight to the best spots.
  • Catch a Sunset: Ericeira’s sunsets are legendary. Find a spot on the cliffs or a quiet beach and watch as the sun dips into the Atlantic, casting a warm glow over the village.
  • Stroll Through the Old Town: Wander the village’s narrow streets, discovering charming cafes, local crafts, and squares like Largo dos Navegantes. It’s a perfect way to soak in the town’s relaxed vibe.
  • Visit the Mafra National Palace: Just a short drive from Ericeira, this Baroque palace is a must-see, with its grand architecture and impressive library.
  • Explore José Franco Typical Village: Step back in time at this open-air museum, showcasing traditional rural life with lifelike scenes of farming and fishing.

  Ericeira’s Culinary Delights: A Taste of the Sea

  Ericeira’s culinary scene is a seafood lover’s dream, with local restaurants serving up fresh catches straight from the Atlantic:

  • Fresh Seafood: Enjoy the local specialties like grilled fish, seafood rice, and the famous açorda de lagosta, a lobster-based bread stew that’s as hearty as it is delicious.
  • Grelhados (Grilled Fish): Simple yet mouthwatering, grilled fish seasoned with olive oil, lemon, and salt is a staple here.
  • Caneja de Infundice: A unique and traditional dish made from “caneja”, a kind of fish, with no direct translation of…

Imagine wandering through the rolling hills and verdant valleys of Northern Portugal, where the landscape is dotted with remarkable stone structures that seem like relics from another time. These are the Espigueiros, the guardians of Portugal’s agricultural past, standing as enduring symbols of rural heritage and ingenuity.

What Are Espigueiros?

Espigueiros are traditional granaries, designed to store and protect grain like corn or wheat. Built predominantly from granite or wood, they rest on raised pillars topped with stone slabs, preventing moisture and pests from compromising the harvest. Their design is both functional and beautiful, reflecting the resourcefulness of communities that depended on agriculture for survival.

Many of these structures feature cross-shaped tops, blending practicality with spiritual protection—symbolizing the safeguarding of the community’s precious food supply.

Iconic Espigueiros to Explore

• Espigueiros do Soajo
  Located in the Peneda-Gerês National Park, this cluster of 24 granaries dates back to the 18th and 19th centuries. Nestled in a village surrounded by stunning natural beauty, these Espigueiros create an atmosphere that feels like stepping into a storybook.
• Espigueiros do Lindoso
  Lindoso is home to one of the largest and most iconic collections of Espigueiros in Portugal, boasting around 50 granaries. Some date as far back as the 17th century, showcasing centuries of agricultural tradition and craftsmanship. The granaries, set against a backdrop of the Lima River and Lindoso Castle, offer a unique blend of history and natural splendor.

A Window Into Rural Life

The Espigueiros are not just architectural landmarks—they tell a story of survival, cooperation, and respect for nature. These granaries were often shared by entire villages, emphasizing the communal spirit that defined rural life in the region.

Beyond their historical and functional importance, the Espigueiros provide a tangible link to the past, allowing visitors to connect with the traditions of rural Portugal.

Tips for Exploring the Espigueiros

• Visit Peneda-Gerês National Park for a dual experience of natural beauty and cultural heritage.
• Don’t miss the nearby villages, where local traditions like basket weaving and artisanal crafts complement the Espigueiros.
• Capture the stunning contrast of these ancient structures against the vibrant green of Northern Portugal’s landscapes.

Have You Discovered the Espigueiros?

If you’ve visited the Espigueiros or plan to explore these iconic landmarks, we’d love to hear your stories. Did you capture photos of these stone treasures or stumble upon a hidden gem? Share your experiences in the comments below!

Exploring the Espigueiros isn’t just about admiring their architecture—it’s about stepping into a world where tradition and nature coexist harmoniously. Whether you’re a history enthusiast or simply a lover of unique experiences, the Espigueiros of Northern Portugal are sure to leave a lasting impression.

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Nestled in the heart of Sintra, surrounded by the lush embrace of verdant forests and misty mountainous landscapes, lies a captivating secret—one that whispers of 19th-century grandeur, fascinating history, and hidden treasures. The Biester Palace, which opened its doors to the public in 2022 after extensive restoration, stands as a mysterious testament to a bygone era, offering an experience like no other.
Built in 1880, this neo-gothic mansion was originally the home of Ernesto Biester, a wealthy merchant and playwright. His vision was to create a private residence that echoed the opulence of the time, and he succeeded—creating a space that, today, continues to allure visitors with its enigmatic beauty. Tucked away in Sintra’s enchanting woodland setting, the Biester Palace remains largely unknown to many. Its distinct conical roofs and intricate windows may seem familiar to fans of The Ninth Gate, a film directed by Roman Polanski, where the palace made a striking appearance.

Upon entering the palace, visitors are transported back to the 19th century. The rooms are untouched by time, with original frescoes, exquisite stuccoes in the Music Room, and intricate painted ceilings, some created by the French artist Paul Baudry. Adding to the theatrical décor are unique pieces by Bordalo Pinheiro, the eccentric Portuguese ceramist known for his striking and unconventional artistry. The palace itself is a fine example of romantic architecture, with a subtle air of mystery permeating every corner.
But the palace is not just about the building—it’s the experience that surrounds it. The Biester Palace sits within a sprawling landscape of extraordinary natural beauty, six acres of exotic and rare flora that transport you to distant lands. These gardens, filled with plants from as far away as China and Japan, invite exploration. A hidden cave with ceramic tiles by Bordalo Pinheiro awaits the curious, while a viewpoint provides a stunning panorama of Sintra’s breathtaking terrain, offering a glimpse into the picturesque beauty of this extraordinary town.
Inside, the palace unfolds across two floors. Visitors can wander through the dining room, billiard room, and library, each one with its own unique charm and sweeping views of the surrounding landscape. One of the most fascinating aspects of the palace is its blend of neo-gothic and art nouveau styles, perfectly captured in its private chapel. Upstairs, the more intimate areas of the palace await, including bedrooms and dressing rooms, all of which retain their original 19th-century designs.
One unexpected feature that adds to the palace’s allure is the elevator, an unusual addition for a private home of its time. Crafted from wood and designed by the same man behind Lisbon’s famous Santa Justa Elevator, Raúl Mesnier de Ponsard, this elevator is a rare piece of engineering in the midst of this historic masterpiece.

For those who crave more than just the traditional sightseeing experience, the Biester Palace offers a chance to step into a world of mystery, history, and architectural wonder—where every corner tells a story waiting to be uncovered.
Whether you’re drawn to the palace’s rich history, its exquisite art, or the surrounding landscape’s serene beauty, Biester Palace promises an experience that lingers long after you’ve left. Come and discover Sintra’s best-kept secret—before it’s no longer a secret at all.

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